I am no hvac expert, so someone more knowledgeable will no doubt have better info. But as a consumer I have had some experience with this.

There is a metal type tape that hvac companies use that you might be able to use to tape up the cut edges of the open fiberglass. inside of your distribution box. That should work in preventing any loose fiberglass getting in the air system. Would be good to do so before you use the system too much though.

As far as the formaldehyde from the glue, that is a more difficult problem. Thinking outloud, I wonder if there is something non-toxic that you could use to seal that up. AFM Safecoat makes non-toxic sealants that you could check out. But it would have to be something that could handle heating and cold temps as I guess you would have to use the heat even in Florida in the winter. Also, you want to make sure that you are not reactive to the sealant as even non-toxic sealants can be a problem. So, do try a sample first and also consult with the AFM tech people and your hvac people. Another concern is that anything you do with a new system could void your warranty. That would matter less than your well being of course, but you should look into that.

The other thing is to have the hvac company take out that fiberboard box and replace it with a metal box. I'm not sure however that the inside of these metal plenums don't also need fiberglass, but if it does I think it is the type that has metal (aluminum?) on the face of it, rather than glue. It might cost alot more to swap it out, but that would be far better than the long term trauma of possible effects and alot of stress and worry. Also, as this sounds like a new system, maybe the installers would work with you regarding price.

You can also use free standing air filters in the rooms of your home to help minimize the levels. I've got two Austin Airs and they might help, but not sure how much. Someone else on this site recently recommended a catalytic air filter that is supposed to reduce voc off-gassing quite a lot. I've never used it, so can't say one way or the other. There may be also air filters you can install in the system, but all these air filters would probably cost as much as replacing the fiberglass. Hope this helps.

Also, can you share with us the name of the formaldehyde-free flexible air ducts that you installed?

I totally can relate to the surprise of the one or two things you can forget to cover when hiring a company to do work on your home; especially when you are sensitive to many things.

Hope this helps and if I've erred anywhere hopefully those more wise than I will fill in the blanks.

As I mentioned on this post - dld123.com/q&a/index.php?cid=12052 - this exposed fiberglass in the airstream is very bad and increasingly all too common. The only remedy I believe is to have it replaced with metal ducts. Also remove and/or cover with foil tape the fiberglass in the blower box assembly. I write this not as an HVAC person, but as someone very sensitive to fiberglass/rockwool particulate.

You will need a HEPA/ULPA ULPA filter and/or vacuum to catch fibers of that size. Also, artificial fabrics like carpet, polyester clothes, etc.. do not let go of fiberglass fibers. So, items made of those fabrics will remain extra itchy. The static electricity bond and the nature of the fibers keep them stuck. Natural fibers like 100% cotton will eventually wash clean.

More information about the under-reported dangers of fiberglass can be found at www.sustainableenterprises.com/fin/. I learned a lot there.

Thanks for the information. I, too, have been checking more. I found out that there ARE companies who make sheet metal distribution boxes, and they are not that expensive. $25 - $30. Also, you CAN use the duct boards lined with fiberglass, with the foil side facing the airflow, if you have to line any area with the duct boards. The typical installation is to have the fiberglass side facing the airflow, but Green Builders Association recommends reversing it.

I just wish I had known some of this before we had all new ducts installed. So, I wanted to share with anyone else who may be considering getting the duct work replaced.

By the way, connecting duct work, I found out, is not a science. I think any person can do it as long as you know how to do it. And, as a home-owner or a concerned person, you are probably more likely to do it right than someone who lives in the insulation-packed attic and think nothing of it.

Sam -
I just realized that I never asnwered your question. The formaldehyde free flex is made by a company Goodman Manufacturing.

Also, last time, I spoke too fast. I was going to get the sheet metal boxes, but then I found out that the labor cost was so high, it was not possible. I had 3-4 companies and handy man to quote, and they were all very high because it takes a lot to wrap them correctly with insulation on the outside.

So, now I am back on the drawing board. AC companies suggested sealing with mastic or foil tape, but others say that mastic is against the code in some counties (to do inside the air flow), and many say that the foil tape will not stick to non-metal surface like fiberglass.

So, we are again lost, and the house sits idle.

Anyone has suggestions?

Thank you

Debra, please help.

I went around and wround with many people/contractors on the duct work.

This product seems to resolve fiberglass dust issue at most resonable price. It is a fiberglass sealer.

www.fiberlock.com/products/msds/8370_msds.pdf

After reviewing every ingredient on the Internet, I am still unsure of the safety. The calculated VOC content is 52g per liter, which I think is OK.

Here is what it says:

Non-hazardous:

Pigmented Latex emulsion coating comprised of water, pigments, fillers, additives, and latex emulsion resin.

Hazardous:

1 - Titanium dioxide 13463-67-7 < 25.0 ACGIH TLV 10 mg/m3 as Dust OSHA PEL 10 mg/m3 as Total Dust 5 mg/m3 Respirable Fraction

2 - Proprietary biocide* N/A < 0.10 Not Established

What do you think about this product?

Thank you!!